Digital design does not need to follow the same rules as physical design

This is suggested by Jan Tepe, a new PhD in design at the Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, who has explored how digital technology can be used in new and creative ways in fashion design.

“My research project suggests that digital design does not need to follow the same rules as physical design. Instead of just seeing clothes as something that covers the body, digital design can treat the body, fabric, and space as equal material components. This means that what these elements are and how they are expressed can be changed and adapted in new ways,” explained Jan Tepe.

His research project was practice-based, meaning he created and tested various ideas through making. The methods varied depending on the specific question being investigated at the time.

“An interesting discovery was how colleagues who tested the designs reacted to virtual reality with VR glasses. I invited my colleagues to explore some of my design works in virtual reality during the early years of my doctoral studies. Instead of walking straight through, for example, a digital jacket floating in space, some of them crawled under the jacket to stand up again on the other side. This showed that the perception of what we consider real in the digital is not necessarily inferior to what we consider real in the physical. It was an important turning point in my research to explore materiality in the digital from a different conceptual perspective,” he explained

The artistic perspective is often neglected

His dissertation highlights the need for more research on the artistic potential of using digital technology in fashion design at a material level.

“Most research in the field of fashion design and its digitalisation primarily addresses sustainability issues at an economic and ecological level. It often neglects to consider fashion design from an artistic perspective, which is crucial for the field. My research addresses this gap, and I hope that what I propose in the dissertation is a welcome contribution to the field on a larger scale.”

Another aspect of his research also concerns how fashion design will be viewed in the future. A future that is already underway.

“If a few years ago we were skeptical about what digital technology could offer, we are already seeing how, for example, young people use digital technology, not least related to fashion. They express their identity more digitally than physically today. This is not only achieved via digital garments, but equally by what bodies one is represented as, and in what types of spaces this takes place.”

Now, Jan Tepe hopes that others in the field of fashion design will be curious about these ideas and that it can lead to new collaborations and discussions. 

What are your plans for the future? 

“My ambition is to continue developing the research presented in my dissertation. I am optimistic that what I have worked on is of great value to the research field. I will remain at the Swedish School of Textiles until the end of August next year and will continue to research and teach. In the meantime, I hope to be able to realise my ideas and ambitions for the future.”

What is your experience as a doctoral student at the Swedish School of Textiles? 

“It has been the best time of my life. I literally enjoyed every day of the journey, no matter how eventful or challenging it seemed at times. I have been able to fully focus on my research while also engaging in educational activities. Participating in conferences in various countries over the years has also been a very rewarding experience. I can wholeheartedly recommend it,” concluded Jan Tepe. 

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Jan Tepe defended his dissertation in textile and fashion on 6 December at the Swedish School of Textiles.

Doctoral Dissertation: Designing Expressions of Body-Fabric-Space Intra-Actions

Main Supervisor: Clemens Thornquist, Professor 

Opponent: Chiara Colombi, Associate Professor in Fashion Design, Design Department, Polytechnic University of Milan

Researcher's profile Jan Tepe 

Research in Textile and Fashion Design at the Swedish School of Textiles