PhD and licentiate projects in Textile Value Chain Management
- Sara Harper (2022). Topic: Supply network configuration for small series production
- Emelie Hultberg (2019-23). Topic: Circular Business Model Scalability
- Sara Harper (2017-22). Topic: Supply network configuration for small series production
- Tarun Kumar Agrawal (2015-19). Topic: Secured traceability supply chain system
- Manoj Kumar Paras (2014-18). Topic: Reuse-based Reverse Value Chain
- Ke Ma (2014-18). Topic: Inter-Organizational Collaboration for Supply Chain Optimization
- Vijay Kumar (2013-17). Topic: Integrated traceability systems
Sara Harper, 2022 (funding H2020, HB) - PhD
Abstract
In high-cost textile and apparel industry contexts, local and small-series production models (demand-driven/on-demand) are increasingly relevant due to various pressures, including global risks, and demands to reduce overproduction for profitability and environmental sustainability. However, understanding how such reconfigurations impact supply chains more broadly, and what are the associated implementation challenges, is required. Thus, the purpose of this thesis is to explore priorities and challenges impacting location decisions and supply network configuration, and related paradoxes, associated with small-series apparel production in high-cost contexts. This is addressed through mixed-methods and qualitative studies detailed in five appended papers, which focus on interrelated decisions, priorities, challenges, and tensions/paradoxes according to practitioners from diverse companies in several EU countries, with a variety of small-series production models and stages of implementation.
The findings show that different supply network configurations for small-series apparel production share several interrelated design decisions, which are driven by multiple network capability-related priorities (performance goals like quality, delivery speed and reliability, flexibility, environmental sustainability, product/process innovation), and are impacted by similar challenges as manufacturing in high-cost contexts. However, the findings suggest product/process innovation and environmental sustainability are higher priorities, and cost challenges are reduced, with small-series product segments. While several priorities are found to be conflicting when juxtaposed, the findings suggest exposure to goal-related tensions is lessened with high levels of product customization. Although awareness of multiple interwoven tensions related to goals and processes is common among diverse companies in the context (i.e. sensing capabilities), capabilities for tension management and adaptability vary (i.e. seizing and reconfiguring). The lack of other tension types explicitly identified indicates limited awareness.
The thesis contributes to theory by addressing the interrelated opportunities of customization and localization on the supply chain and network configuration level, through focus on the apparel industry context. In the process, the research highlights the utility of a combined supply network configuration and paradox theory-based perspective to unify and categorize insights from fragmented extant literature, which can be used to address other complex topics in supply chain and operations management. Future research should build upon preliminary insights regarding the different levels of exposure to interwoven tensions, and capabilities for paradoxical sensemaking and management. Such investigations should explicitly seek to identify latent tensions in supply networks; address whether identified and managed tensions remain paradoxical over time; and analyze outcomes of paradoxical sensemaking and management on performance goals (e.g. cost, flexibility, quality, product and process innovation, environmental and social sustainability, and resilience).
The main contributions to practice are guidance for managers in high-cost textile and apparel-like industry contexts, with analysis of existing and future network configurations for small-series production implementation/scaling, and paradoxical sensemaking. The findings suggest managers should expand upon current levels of awareness to understand latent tensions, like the learning tensions that were revealed within several response strategies. Managers should be aware that local production is often a driver of tensions in high-cost contexts, rather than being included among multidimensional tension management strategies; whereas customization has the potential to reduce exposure to goal-related tensions. To respond to various tensions, managers can leverage/develop internal and external resources focused on both product and operations design. To respond to process tensions impacting customization, enhanced and reduced levels of product and process development can be balanced.
Keywords [en] high-cost contexts, customization, supply network configuration, priorities, challenges, paradox theory
Emelie Hultberg, 2021 (funding Handelsbankens forskningsstiftelser, HB) - Licentiate
Title: Upscaling Circular Business Models in Fashion Retail Value Chains
Abstract
The textile industry is currently operating in an unsustainable manner that is based on overproduction and wasteful, resource-draining practices. Therefore, recently, the concept of circular economy has been presented as a possible solution and a way forward. Changing linear economy business practices and basing them on the circular economy concept is anticipated to solve social and environmental problems while maintaining economic growth. However, fashion retail value chains essentially depend on the logic of mass production, fast fashion, and linear take-make-dispose models. Presently, circular initiatives in this context are rather limited. This thesis posits that circular business model (CBM) scalability is an important factor in the transition to a circular economy in the fashion retail value chain, and thus, a more sustainable fashion industry.
Therefore, the purpose of this thesis is to further the understanding of CBM scalability in the context of fashion retail value chains. This includes expanding the notion of scalability to cover a more holistic perspective that goes beyond increasing production output solely for economic gains. Additionally, this involves enhancing the understanding of the required specific resources and capabilities that CBMs must have or develop to overcome challenges and increase their potential for scalability. Accordingly, this thesis covers three papers that utilise qualitative methods wherein archival material, such as peer reviewed journal articles and industry reports, as well as interviews with practitioners are used.
Moreover, the extension of the notion of business model scalability goes beyond the boundary of the organisation and encompasses three different perspectives, namely, efficiency, adaptability, and altruism. In addition to this, three areas that challenge CBM scalability are identified. These challenges stem from different business model design themes and can be described as (i) inefficiency, (ii) lack of know-how and out-of-the-box solutions, and (iii) unfamiliarity resulting in scepticism and dissonance with current practices and policy. Finally, the thesis contributes to the CBM literature by utilising the theoretical lenses of resource-based theory and dynamic capabilities theory to identify resources and dynamic capabilities that are strategically important for scaling CBMs. This thesis expands the notion of scalability by going beyond the boundary of the single organisation as well as including a triple bottom line perspective, thus providing an important addition to the understanding of the scalability of CBMs.
Keywords: circular business models, fashion industry, scalability, resource based theory, dynamic capabilities, retail value chain
Sara Harper, 2020 (funding H2020, HB) - Licentiate
Abstract
The purpose of this thesis is to increase the understanding of supply network configuration (SNC) for small series production in high-cost contexts in relation to the textile/apparel industry. SNC encompasses strategic structural and infrastructural decisions at the supply chain level, motivated by capabilities/priorities. The key configuration decisions addressed concern textile/apparel production in Europe, with associated context-specific advantages and challenges. The thesis takes a particular focus on how practitioners consider these configurations and motivations. The thesis begins with identification of motivations for locating textile/apparel production in high-cost contexts, to capture the driving priorities. Thereafter, the thesis extends the focus beyond location motivations to identify the key SNC aspects and characteristics for small series production in high-cost contexts. These configuration-related aspects and capabilities are elaborated upon and modelled to understand how they are interrelated in textile/apparel industry contexts. The empirical work uses mixed-methods and seeks to bring together the relevant topics using a SNC and capabilities approach. The specific methods, Delphi study and interpretive structural modeling, are focused on sensitivity practitioner perspectives.
Findings show multiple key motivations/capabilities for high-cost textile/apparel production, specifically small series production (customization); which is closely linked with several other priorities, including quality and flexibility/delivery. Expanding the view to the SNC aspects, the findings confirm and extend the literature regarding complexities, multi-level characteristics, synergies and trade-offs, and industry/location contingencies. Regarding this European textile/apparel context, several interrelated considerations create challenges with respect to balancing configuration, capabilities and location; in particular related to multiple priorities such as flexibility/delivery, quality, innovation/sustainability, and the level of product variety/customization. Several relational characteristics are also crucial, including focus on trust and information sharing, although, with a few significant exceptions, limited supplier integration levels are found. These findings indicate the need to build upon existing relationships to develop end-to-end digital connections.
The thesis contributes to theory by broadening the focus on high-cost locations to include small series production and the SNC perspective. Thus, the research confirms multiple priorities including innovation and sustainability; additionally finding several challenges associated with small series textile/apparel production in high-cost contexts. Further research should extend the focus to understand (re)configuration processes, and implications on priorities like sustainable innovation.
Keywords: small series production, high-cost contexts, textile/apparel industry, supply network configuration, capabilities, priorities
Tarun Kumar Agrawal, 2019 (funding Erasmus Mundus)
Title: Contribution to development of a secured traceability system for textile and clothing supply chain
Abstract
Secured traceability implies not only the ability to identify, capture, and share required information on product transformation throughout the supply chain (SC), but also the ability to ensure the security of the traceability data. Due to information asymmetry and lack of transparency, textile and clothing (T&C) industries often face challenges in implementing and maintaining sufficient traceability. The SC actors find it difficult to identify and track the suppliers and sub-suppliers involved. Additionally, the opaque and largely untraceable structure of the SC has enabled the easy intrusion of counterfeits. Hence, a secured traceability system is imperative to ensure that the required traceability data are captured and shared among SC actors, thereby allowing the tracking and tracing of the products in the SC. Further, a secured traceability system helps organizations in various decision-making processes and protects customers from counterfeits. This thesis contributes to the development of a secured traceability system for the T&C sector. It examines traceability at product and information levels, based on the system-of systems approach. At the product level, the thesis introduces a secured traceability tag that can be printed on the textile surface. The secured tag is hard to copy and is durable enough to withstand normal textile use, thus providing sufficient security besides product tagging for traceability implementation. At the information level, the thesis explores and classifies traceability data that can be shared at business-to-business and business-to customer levels for the implementation of secured traceability. Subsequently, a block chain-based traceability framework is proposed for the T&C supply chain to systematically capture and share data in the supply chain network. The proposed framework demonstrates the applicability of shared data infrastructure to traceability without a central authority and develops technology-based trust among the supply chain actors. It relies on no central authority, and has customized data privacy and accessibility rules, thus providing a unique opportunity, flexibility, and authority to all supply chain actors to trace their supply chains and create transparent and sustainable supply chain networks.
Keywords: Traceability, Textile and clothing, Supply chain, Secured tag, Blockchain
Manoj Kumar Paras, 2018 (funding Erasmus Mundus)
Title: Reuse-based Reverse Value Chain for Sustainable Apparel Industry
Abstract
The reverse value chain is a concept that maximizes the utility of a product after end-of-life or end-of-use. Its main components are reuse, repair, up-cycling and down-cycling. This thesis has investigated the business of apparel ‘reuse’ to develop a reuse-based reverse value chain model for apparel industry. The research began by understanding the existing theory of reverse value chain. The theory includes a literature review of the value chain from the apparel industry as well as from the other industries. A conceptual framework has been developed by considering processes of reverse value chain such as collection, sorting and reprocessing.
Consequently, the thesis has undertaken a mix method (qualitative and quantitative) approach to study the reuse-based reverse value chain. An exploratory method based on multiple case studies has been adopted to explore the current sustainable practices of apparel reuse. Organizations were visited and unstructured interviews were conducted with founder and senior managers. The results have been utilized to develop an empirical model from the current practices of collection, sorting, and reprocessing. Qualitative findings highlight that higher economic recovery depends upon efficient reprocessing and collaborations with different stakeholders of the reverse value chain of apparel. Thus, an efficient resource recovery is economical as well as environmentally sustainable. Engagement of marginalized and vulnerable sections of society in the reverse value chain of apparel contributes towards social sustainability.
The empirical model was further strengthened by mathematical model formulation. Analytical hierarchy process, Genetic algorithm and Markov principle have been used for the analysis of reuse-based reverse value chain. The thesis provides theoretical contribution, implications and ways to improve the current practice of apparel reuse along with providing scope for future research.
Keywords: Reverse value chain, Reuse, Value creation, Apparel industry, Second hand clothing
Ke Ma, 2018 (funding Erasmus Mundus)
Title: Inter-Organizational Collaboration for Optimizing Textile Supply Chains
Abstract
Nowadays, as the increasing trend of customization and personalization in fashion market, the mass customization and small-series production has become more and more important in textile supply chain. However, there are still many drawbacks in existing supply chain models which are used to cope with this trend. Collaboration plays a vital role in supply chain management in past decades. However, supply chain collaboration is rarely applied in textile industry, neither in research nor in practice. Considering the potential advantages of the application of supply chain collaboration, to bridge the gap, this thesis employs multiple supply chain collaboration strategies to optimize existing textile supply chain models.
In this PhD research, a thorough investigation and literature review regarding supply chain collaboration was conducted. Several emerging supply chain collaboration paradigms and strategies were identified, which provided a theoretical foundation and research direction for the subsequent research. Consequently, three innovative supply chain models with corresponding optimization strategies were developed: (1) a novel resource sharing mechanism for optimizing garment manufacturing echelon in textile supply chain, (2) a central order processing system for optimizing demand-driven textile supply chain, and (3) a collaborative cloud service platform for optimizing make-to-order textile supply chain. Identified supply chain collaboration strategies, viz. resource sharing, information sharing, joint decision-making, profit sharing, were employed for developing the three collaborative models. Optimization heuristics were also designed for different objectives in three models respectively. The three proposed supply chain collaboration strategies were realized in three simulation models by employing discrete-event simulation technology or multi-agent simulation technology. Several experiments were conducted to demonstrate the advantages of such collaborative structure under different conditions. Based on simulation experiment results, multiple supply chain performances were improved significantly in each model under different conditions. The developed models with corresponding strategies can optimize current textile supply chain and help companies maintain competence in the trend of mass customization in textile industry.
Keywords: supply chain collaboration, mass customization, resource sharing, discrete-event simulation, multi-agent simulation, optimization heuristics, textile supply chain
Vijay Kumar, 2017 (funding Erasmus Mundus)
Abstract
Traceability, in general, refers to keeping track of information to a certain degree. The concept of traceability is considered important to verify the various aspects of products in different industries and their global supply chains. Textile industry is among those which are accused time‐to‐time for opaque supply chains and unsustainable practices. Particularly, the aftermath of a series of industrial catastrophes, customers and non‐government organizations have started to scrutinize the brands to bring transparency in their supply chains. In this direction, traceability has been identified as a tool for organizations to trace their supplies throughout the supply chains and collect relevant information to ensure transparency and claim validation. Traceability has been further acknowledged as a competitive element and often acts as a decisive factor in purchase process. Moreover, the textile products are one of the most counterfeit‐prone items around the world. As a result, the demand for traceability has been intensified for supply chain monitoring and security, and product authentication.
The principal aim of this thesis was to address the implementation of traceability information systems in the textile supply chain. Further, it investigates the feasibility of yarn‐based integrated tracking tags as a means to impart traceability in textiles. It has been pursued through several independent studies in the domain of textile manufacturing, supply chain management and information systems. The appended papers in this thesis address various aspects of traceability implementation in the textile supply chain and how traceability information can be encoded into the textiles using yarn‐based coding.
Traceability consists of two components namely information system and tagging. The latter component is used to uniquely identify the product in the supply chain which assists in recalling and/or storing the relevant traceability data from/in the information system. Different actors in the supply chain manage the traceability data in their information systems, therefore traceability tag acts as a linking agent for information exchange. In this direction, this thesis introduces the concept of yarn coding and yarn coding‐based integrated tags which can be potentially used in future for textile traceability applications. In addition, a framework is proposed for the implementation of traceability information system in the textile supply chain. The work highlights various elements which can play a significant role in promoting and/or implementing traceability. Regardless of perspective or viewpoint, traceability is interwoven between technical and managerial aspects; therefore traceability implementation requires a techno‐management approach to obtain an optimal solution.
Keywords: Traceability, Textile, Yarn coding, Integrated tag, Supply chain management